This organic ‘Shui Xian’, though now happily nested in the mountains of Nantou, was originally cut from mainland stock and brought to Taiwan by the Chang family. The legacy of this variety grows richer by the day. Mr. Chang is acutely aware of contemporary challenges to tea production: picker shortages, climate change, and unstable demand. Accordingly, he waits until picking is complete on his half hectare garden, before slating a harvest to its respective processing styles—matching weather, quality, and yield to the style best suited. Here, only tender leaves are harvested and deftly rolled into a tight ball. Superbly toasty sweetness ensconces gentle fruit and herbal complexity.